When it comes to searching for UTV parts, we know how confusing left and right can be. (I mean, let’s be honest here. Some of us were well into adulthood before we figured out which hand is which.)
To make matters more confusing, we as a species can’t even agree on what side of the road to drive on.
As our inventory started to expand, we found that we were in need of a standardized system. One that would be easy to relay to our customers and our staff. And so, we developed the Scooter’s Powersports Pro Tips for Left vs Right UTV Parts*.
*Capitalized to sound more official than it really is…
Rather than trying to do some sort of thought experiment, stand your UTV. As long as you are standing BEHIND the UTV, you should have no problem determining left and right.
Related: The ODES Parts Every Dealer Should Have on Hand
*If you’re actually looking for parts for a manure truck, you might be better off thinking about it. Pee yew.
We’ve sold countless parts to people all around the globe. (Shameless self-promotion: We’re actually the largest online retailer for ODES parts. Woop woop.) Sometimes the manure truck analogy doesn’t work quite as well. That’s why whenever possible, we try to list UTV parts as “driver side” or “passenger side.”
Since we’re located in the United States, 98% of our customer base drives on the right side of the road. This is also the same format that ODES Industries uses when describing their parts. To avoid as much confusion as possible, we use the US versions of “driver side” and “passenger side.”
If you’re outside of the US, don’t fret! Keep in mind, most UTVS are for offroad use anyway. Since ODES Industries only produces vehicles with the driver on the left, our version of “driver side” and “passenger side” will still apply to your UTV. No matter where you are in the world, you will still stand behind your ODES to determine left vs. right.
We never want to sell you UTV parts you don’t need. If you’re ever in doubt, make sure to contact us us before placing your order. We’re happy to assist with any questions you may have about your order.
Related: How to Get the Most Out of Your ODES Warranty
For more in-depth help, we now also offer Premium Tech Support Services. This Premium Support will allow you to speak with one of our technicians. We can help with troubleshooting and performance via direct phone call.
]]>If you’ve ever looked for an ODES part, chances are you’ve encountered something like this:
A part diagram with a list of corresponding parts. This is pretty typical for any OEM part diagram. What is not so typical, is the text string used in the parts list.
Let’s break it down and see if we can figure out what ODES is trying to say.
As the largest retailer for ODES OEM parts, we have spent many hours staring at screens just like the image above. We learned there is a system to deciphering ODES parts. If we’re going to share this system with you, we need an example. So let’s take the first item listed on the breakdown in the screen shot.
EG800-1-001/ 1/ 21040100101/ Cylinder head gasket/Fits D2, D4, X2, X4, Raider, ATV 800cc 60HP
The last half of this string is self-explanatory. We’ll focus on the part that tends to cause the most confusion.
EG800-1-001/ 1/ 21040100101
EG800-1-001. This is not a part number. Since it's the first thing you see, it's a common belief that this is in fact the part number. It is not.
The first number refers to the LOCATION of the part. Think of it as a home address.
EG800 translates to the 800cc motor.
-1 translates to the first breakdown. In this case, that's the Front Cylinder.
-001 refers to the location of the part on the diagram. So if you're looking at the diagram, this is the part labelled "1".
So EG800-1-001 is ODES 800cc Front Cylinder Head, Item 1.
The next part of this line is / 1/. This is the third location listed again. Why is it listed twice? I don’t know. But you can ignore this part. The location of the part on the diagram is already listed in the first part of the string.
The third part of this string is the most important part. 21040100101 is the part number that distinguishes each part as an individual.
Think of this number as a social security number.
Each individual (or part) can have many home addresses, but only one social security number.
At Scooter’s Powersports, we list OEM parts with their name (which can vary) and their OEM part number. So our example becomes CYLINDER HEAD GASKET | 21040100101. ODES lists some parts with the same part number but different names. We try to choose a name that will cause the least amount of confusion. We include more details in the part description on the product page. For example, ODES lists two oil filters for the 800cc motor. One is the oil filter that most people look for when they do a routine engine oil change. The other is not. So we updated the name and description to avoid confusion.
We don’t refer to parts by their location because there would be far, far, too many duplicates to keep track of. For example, the OEM part number 01224060161 is a screw. If we listed it by LOCATION, it would duplicate approximately 20 times. (It shows up in about 20 different part diagrams.)
It’s also worth noting that we don’t list part numbers with a leading zero. So the ODES part number 01224060161 becomes SCREW | 1224060161.
At last count, there were about 2,500 ODES OEM parts listed on our website and around 200 ODES OEM part diagrams. Each one created by a single person based on data published by ODES Industries. We’re auditing products and adding descriptions daily. If you find any errors or have any questions, please feel free to contact us. We’re happy to help you find the parts you need. Remember, any errors you point out makes this site easier to use for everyone.
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If you run into a problem, get in touch with your dealer immediately. We want you to be happy. If you wait, you may cause more damage, run out of warranty coverage, or become disgruntled. We don't want any of that.
Related: You Need to Know How to Spot a Terrible UTV Dealer
If you call your dealer the moment you have an issue, they can make time to give you their full attention. Don't plan to drop in and leaving the unit when you have time. It might sound convenient, but may cause more time and headache in the long run.
Unfortunately, we can't give you parts and send you on your way. ODES requires the dealer to troubleshoot and verify faults before submitting a claim. We are also required to submit photographs of the damage.
In the last year or two, ODES has made dramatic improvements to their claims process. When the dealer submits a claim, ODES begins processing it immediately. If the claim requires additional testing or tech support, this may take a few extra days. This is usually because ODES and the dealer will need to communicate back and forth to make a diagnosis.
Warranty parts ship within 1-2 business days. If a part is back ordered, the dealer can request shipment of the remaining parts. If there are parts on your claim that are on back order, your dealer should make you aware of that. If parts are on back order, ODES does email the dealership with status updates on a routine basis.
Note that if your dealer carries parts on hand, they are free to use those to get you out of the shop faster. When ODES ships the parts that were back ordered, the dealer may keep those as stock.
Related: OEM and Aftermarket Parts for ODES UTVS
ODES will reimburse the dealer for labor if your coverage is still active. If your labor coverage has expired, you will owe the dealer for labor on any service performed. Your dealer should inform you of your labor status. If you are unsure of your coverage, be sure to ask.
This is up to the dealer. We do not currently allow customers to install their own warranty parts. If you install your parts and then have an issue, things become muddy. If we install your parts and they don't fix the problem, we can reopen the warranty claim. It is better to cover your bases and let the dealership install warranty parts for you, even if you do have to pay for the labor.
This is usually up to the dealer. Because ODES often requires turn-in of old parts, we do not allow the customer to keep them. If another dealer does allow you to keep your damaged parts, then that is their choice.
Take a deep breath. If you have a problem covered by warranty and the repair didn't resolve the issue, we can reopen the claim. No big deal. Contact the dealer that did the warranty work. It's worth repeating though, contact them immediately. Don’t wait until it's convenient.
]]>Related: Six Things You Should Know BEFORE You Buy a UTV
When this happens, we take the machine in the shop and look it over to verify the problem. We go over everything with the customer again and it usually doesn't happen twice. But sometimes it does...
Logic would suggest that there are some who are TRYING to cause damage. Without judgement, here's our three biggest tips for how to ruin your drive belt.
Disclaimer: We don’t just talk the talk. We’ve ruined our own drive belt this way plenty of times. 😜
This first step is imperative. If you want to go through drive belts, you need to drive everywhere in HIGH gear. Some people might try to tell you that you should only be in HIGH gear if you’re driving faster than 35 mph. Ignore them. They don’t have the time, energy, or money to spend on repairs like you do.
To destroy your drive belt, you must commit to driving in HIGH gear at all times. Especially when you’re towing or climbing a hill.
It’s not easy to ruin a drive belt. Driving in HIGH gear is going to help, but to speed up the damage, you want to get your belt wet. Wet and dirty. Find the deepest water you can and drive through it as much as possible. The water will help your belt to slip. The more it slips, the more likely it is to tear.
For an extra challenge, make sure the water is full of dirt or sand. The debris will help gunk up your clutch. This causes slippage. It will also increase the likelihood of damage to your primary and secondary clutch.
Related: Anatomy of an ATV: This is How Your Drive Belt Works
If you want to ruin your drive belt, you’re going to have to commit. At this point, you’ve at least glazed your drive belt. It will start to slip and your UTV will begin to feel “jerky.” If you want to spend time and money on repairs, you need to start tuning out these “warning signs.”
askhole
A person who repeatedly asks for advice from multiple individuals, only to ignore aforementioned advice completely. The askhole will choose the least logical option (usually their own), skipping merrily down the path into unbridled oblivion, blissfully and willingly oblivious throughout the entire ordeal.
The best way to cause damage to your drive belt is to ignore any “common sense” indications that you should stop. If you smell burning rubber, your UTV begins to “jerk,” or see smoke of any kind, keep on the throttle.
Most UTV owners can go hundreds of hours on the same drive belt. But you’ve committed the time and energy (and now money!) to causing the most damage in the least amount of time.
Now that you’ve ruined your drive belt in record time, read up on how to replace it.
]]>Related: UTV Battery Dead? Here’s How to Keep a Charge
If your multimeter is auto ranging, turn the dial to the V setting. If your multimeter is not auto ranging, make sure you are in the DC setting. There is no standard for multimeters. Because all models are different, you may need to refer to your manual to find the correct setting for a 12V system.
The symbol on the left is for AC Voltage. The symbol on the right is for DC Voltage.
On most models, the attachment for your leads will be color coded. For example, the black lead goes in the black port and the read lead goes in the red port. If these are not color coded, the black will always go in the port labeled COM (for common). The red will always go in the port labeled V (for volts, when you are using the voltage setting).
The ports may include other labels as well. For example, the red port on my model is V, TEMP, Ω, and CAP. For our purposes right now, we’re only interested in the V.
Related: Troubleshooting the Starter Solenoid
For almost everything in the automotive world, you will touch the black lead to the negative (- or ground). You will touch the red lead to the positive (+ or power).
Most of the time (key word: most) you can use any of the frame, engine, or any metal part on your ATV for the black lead. If you have an off brand (Chinese) ATV, keep in mind that some of them do not use frame ground.
Of course there are exceptions. If you are testing a wire for ground, the black lead will be used as the test lead. The red lead will need to be on the positive terminal.
Related: ATV Battery Types and Maintenance
If you have good contact and the system has live power, this should give you a reading.
You most likely have the leads crossed. Adjust the leads and try again.
Charge your battery using a battery maintainer or a trickle charger.
Let your battery sit and stabilize for at least one hour before testing the voltage again.
You likely have a bad cell. It's time to replace your battery.
]]>The tie rods on an ATV are a bolt style. (This is not at all like your daily driver.) They have a tendency to loosen if you’re doing much turning. If your tie rods become loose, they can cause serious damage to the spindle. And that means a bigger, more expensive repair. Save yourself some time and money later by checking your tie rods today.
This is the short version. Check out our Anatomy of an ATV post for more details.
Wheel bearings are super easy to check. Grab the tire with both hands at eight o’clock and two o’clock position. Now try and move the tire back and forth, pushing and pulling away from your body. If there is ANY wiggle there, it’s time to replace the wheel bearings.
A word of advice here. Don’t cheap out and try to ride an ATV on bad wheel bearings. Not only is it unsafe, but it can end up costing you more in repairs in the long run.
One of the easiest methods of preventative maintenance, is to grab everything. If it’s loose, tighten it. If it squeaks, grease it. It does not take any time and can save you so much headache if done on a regular basis. We recommend you perform this wiggle check on every vehicle, every time you ride.
The OEM drive chains on most youth ATVs are not meant to hold up to the same wear as most adult ATVs. Check the tension often by using the three finger method. You should be able to fit three fingers between the top and bottom part of the chain.
I like to get a 2.5 gallon fuel can that I use just for each youth ATV. When you need to fill the gas can, change the oil. It’s that easy.
If your brake light is not coming on, then you’re not going to be able to get the unit to start. Try both the hand brake and the foot brake. If neither are coming on, check your battery.
You need a battery maintainer. Get in the habit of storing your ATV on a battery maintainer whenever you’re not riding. This will ensure a long battery life and your ATV will always be ready when you are.
You would not believe how often we see this. If your unit will crank but not start, check the kill switch on the handlebar. If this switch is on, nothing you do will get the ATV to start. It may seem obvious, but it happens more than you might think.
A common issue we see in the shop is a fuel shut off that is leaking. We usually see this when someone is going to pull their ATV out of storage after not using it for awhile. They never used the fuel shut off when they were riding, only during storage. You can avoid this common problem by either using the fuel shut off all the time, or never. It does not matter whether you use it or not. Just pick one.
Preventative maintenance and occasional troubleshooting are a part of ATV ownership. But it does not have to be a chore. Check things out before and after you ride but make it fun. There’s no reason this can’t be a family activity.
]]>If a UTV “dealership” specializes in trailers, used parts, or construction equipment, walk. Don’t tempt yourself into spending thousands of dollars to save a few hundred. If you’re not their primary demographic when they sell to you, it's unlikely they will be much help later on.
Wheel bearings, drive belts, brake pads... All these parts are common wear items. If a dealership doesn’t carry these items on hand when you don’t need them, they won't have the big parts you do need them. And for that matter, how longer will a service take when they have to order even the most common parts? Which brings us to the next red flag...
Don’t walk away from this “dealer.” Run.
It surprises us how many people brag about the speed with which their dealer got them out the door. On the day they purchased their new UTV, many customers recall it taking less than ten minutes. Our Pre-Delivery Inspection (PDI) consists of us going over the vehicle with you. We look at EVERYTHING. We double-check EVERYTHING. We provide you with Warranty Registration Documents. We explain the break-in period. And we go over the service schedule and provide tips for getting the most out of your new investment. All while we answer any and all questions you may have about your new UTV. This is NOT a short process. If your dealer takes your money, throws you the keys, and sends you on your way, YOU NEED TO FIND A NEW DEALER.
By the time you need them, it’s usually too late. We have seen far too many warranty claims where the customer does not have any documentation. We have been lucky to resolve most of these issues. But there have been times when it has taken extra days to weeks to resolve. And that’s time you could be spending out on the trails.
Dealerships start and close all the time. This is especially true in the world of Independent Dealerships (i.e., non-franchised). If you’re particularly interested in an ODES UTV, check their online Dealer Locator. If a dealership is NOT listed on their dealer locator, be extra cautious before buying.
In fact, as of the publication date of this article, ODES UTVS lists a warning on their Dealer Locator:
]]>BUYER BEWARE: ODES UTVS only sells to a network of authorized dealers hand picked by ODES UTVS. Any dealers NOT found using the Dealer Locator below are not buying directly from ODES UTVS, and we will not guarantee or warranty any products they sell.
When in the open position, the open differential will only apply power to one wheel. This is sometimes referred to as “limited slip.” The closed differential will apply power to both wheels at the same time. This is sometimes referred to as “posi-trac.”
The 2017 Long Travel units from ODES UTVS will use less horsepower during turns. This means less stress on the driveline, which equates to lower maintenance costs. Additionally, if you use your UTV around the house, you won’t have to worry about tearing up the grass.
On the four-door machine, the decrease in turning radius will be even more noticeable. We pull these machines in and out of the shop on a regular basis. We can say that it’s made driving much more enjoyable.
For the times when you don’t need four wheel drive, but you’d like a little extra traction. Here's an example. Four wheel drive would be overkill when driving on wet grass. Lock the differential and gain the extra traction without creating all the ruts.
Standard travel units and models earlier than 2017 will not be able to upgrade. There’s no word yet on when or/if this option will be available in the future. If this changes, we’ll be sure to let you know.
You can spot the difference in a unit with the newer, open differential with a quick glance. Here’s a photo of the two differentials side-by-side.
The photo on the left shows the newer, open differential. The photo on the right shows the standard differential on all ODES UTVS before 2017.
We’re very happy to see the new open differential. The ability to drive over grass without tearing it up gives us even more ways to use our machine. It’s also been on the wish list of several of our regular customers - and we’re happy when they’re happy. If you won’t be using your UTV on well manicured grass, we still recommend the open differential. The turning radius alone makes the UTV a more enjoyable drive.
]]>The Assailant has been out since 2015 but this is our first time carrying one in store. Right off the bat, the design and quality of this ATV is impressive. The 2016 ODES Assailant is a TRUE utility ATV packed with luxury features and is available at a great price. With a powerful motor, a proven clutch, and an industry leading warranty, this is a rig for everyone.
In 2015, ODES released their first ATV, the Assailant. The Assailant utilizes the same 800cc engine and CVTech clutch system as the UTVs in the ODES line. The Assailant comes equipped with off-road features like 4×4 capability and a locking differential.
In true ODES style, the Assailant comes loaded with accessories. The Assailant is a true utility-style ATV. It comes equipped with a 2500-lb winch, front and rear racks, and storage capabilities. With it’s included ball hitch, the Assailant is ready to get to work. The Assailant has a tow capacity of 1400-lbs.
Luxury features on the Assailant include side mirrors, handguards, and two person seating. The driver seat on the Assailant provides ample room for adjusting body weight. The passenger seat features a padded backrest and large foot rests on either side. Both seats feature a thick foam padding to reduce rider fatigue.
The entire 2016 lineup comes with a two-year factory warranty. Extended warranty options are available up to 48-months (including labor!).
]]>This phrase may seem unnecessary, but I assure you that someone needs to say it. For one thing, financing is COMPLETELY different. If you plan to finance a UTV, you need to have good credit. Because UTVs are recreational, there are not as many lenders willing to extend credit.
Many people believe that UTVs are a great way to save on fuel, which is true if they are street legal. As ODES UTV dealers, we are often asked if the UTVs we sell are street legal. That’s a hard question to answer. It depends less on the make and model of UTV and more on the area where you live or ride. You should always check with your local DMV to be sure.
My favorite reason for pointing out that a UTV is not a car is the charging system. Many people believe that the charging system in a UTV is the same as in a car. In our experience working with new UTV owners, a good 90% will contact us about battery trouble. Out of that 90%, 100% of the issues are NOT with the battery. Check out our post on your UTV charging system for more details.
You wouldn’t think anyone would ever need to point this out either, but I stand by including it on the list.
We see plenty of vehicles in the shop for overheating. It’s not uncommon to find the radiator covered in mud. We’ve also diagnosed plenty of UTVs for “being jerky.” (Lunging forward during take off). Common causes are belt slippage due to water or debris. And my all time favorite: the broken drive shaft that occurred as a result of winching the UTV up a hill while in park.
The bottom line is that a UTV can be a rugged off-road machine – but that doesn’t mean it can defy the laws of physics.
In case the point above didn’t make it obvious enough, things will break. Sometimes it’s your fault, sometimes it’s not. Sometimes you’ll get lucky and it will be a warranty issue – most of the time it won’t.
There are things that are easy to budget for and you should take into consideration right off the bat. Plan on changing the engine oil once to twice per year (three times if you buy a brand new unit). You’ll also want to change the transmission and differential fluids at least once a year as well.
Common wear items are likely to need replaced in the first one to two years. These include items like drive belts, brake pads, and wheel bearings. Although there are ways to extend the life of some of these items. Don’t continue to drive on loose wheel bearings. To extend the life of your drive belt, stay in low whenever possible.
And sometimes things will break just because that’s what happens. Whenever you look at any UTV, check out the angle of the CV shafts. The steeper the angle, the softer the ride, the more likely you will need to replace it. If the CV shaft is parallel to the ground (or near it) it will last longer but may not provide as comfortable a ride. (This is not the only factor in ride quality, just an example of maintenance costs.)
What do you think is a better buy? A used UTV off Craigslist for $5000-$7000 or a new UTV with a factory warranty for $10,000? Don’t worry, there’s no right answer.
If you’re buying used, you should at least double what you budgeted for maintenance in the first year. And yes, that’s even if the unit is in great shape. Even if the previous owner was a little old lady who only used it for gardening. Especially if you’re best friends with the person who is selling it.
As a service center, we have seen many “great deals” ring up hundreds of dollars in parts and labor. In the worst case we’ve seen, it was a couple thousand. If you’re going to buy used, know what to look for ahead of time. And make sure you know what you’re getting into.
Somewhere between the day you take a UTV home and it’s first service, a weird thing happens. There’s a strange phenomenon where people tend to forget that most UTVs are plastic. It’s not just that UTVs are plastic, it’s like they forget the physical properties of plastic as well.
We’ve all been there, but if you’re a first time UTV owner, let me save you some heartache by reminding you now. Plastic fades over time. It is also prone to cracking when exposed to extreme temperature shifts. Decals installed on plastic will fade and may peel. And hydro-dipping (which is SUPER popular right now) tends to show scratches.
An example of hydro-dipped plastics.
I know, it sucks. And to top it off, replacement plastic is EXPENSIVE! (In large part due to shipping costs since the pieces are so big). So what can you do? Not much.
Parking out of the sun helps avoid fading. You could also avoid trails where you’ll be close to trees or branches. Make sure that you also avoid rock crawling and hill climbing as well. Oh, and stay off gravel roads too – you wouldn’t want rocks to scratch or break your plastic either. By following these simple rules your plastic will be pristine forever. Yup, just park inside and don’t go anywhere. Ever.
You need a trailer. Not a little 4×8 trailer. Most full-size UTVs are at least 60 inches wide. You need a bigger trailer. Yes, you do. Stop fighting it.
You may even need a garage or storage shed. When we decided we didn’t have enough room at the house for our toys, we took some money out of savings to buy a shed. Then we used that money to start a business and now we still can’t park in the garage. True story.
]]>Step back and do a little math and things become clearer. Here's an example of just SOME of the items that are drawing power from your battery:
• ECU (Electronic Control Unit) = 2 amps
• Fuel Pump = 5 amps
• Approximately one 20-inch LED light bar = 10 amps
• Radio = 10 amps
• TOTAL = 27 amps
At only 27 amps of draw, you should be good right? WRONG. Your UTV should produce 30 amps at higher RPM’s but not at an idle. To produce 30 amps, you need to be at 3000-4000 RPMs. This is the point when the engine turns the flywheel fast enough to put out peak amps. So you think you will just hammer the throttle all the time and the charge should be good right? Wrong again. Remember all those goodies we listed above? Think of it like a budget. If you only have 30 amps and you spend them all on accessories, what's left? Not enough to charge your battery. At this rate, the draw you put on your battery when you started your rig will never get re-charged.
If you have trouble imagining of all of the electronics drawing power from your battery, take a look at your dash.
And let's say you're not putting a load or draining your battery completely when you are riding. You are still discharging your battery each time you let your engine fall below 3000 RPMs. Below 3000 RPMs, it is your battery that is keeping your rig going. For the sake of argument, let's point out that in the example above we only listed 27 amps worth of accessories. But then we said that at 3000 RPMs, you're producing 30 amps. That should leave a net profit of 3 amps, right? (Spoiler: 30 - 27 = 3.)
We also said the list was SOME of the electronics (and fuel pump and ECU aren't exactly optional). On paper it makes perfect sense but in real life, there are many many items drawing from your battery at all times. Here's a few more: the speedometer, factory HID headlights, tail lights, brake lights, horn. When your fan kicks on and off, that can take 15 amps by itself! And I hope you're enjoying that electric power steering - that can be another 10 amps.
So what can you do? First thing is first try to limit your electrical needs. Yes, a 50 LED light bar is bright and cool looking, but do you need that much light? We have four 4-inch led lights on our rig and it is plenty bright. The best part is they only take around 6 amps.
Next, do you need a thumping subwoofer and stereo that can blast you out of the rig while trail riding? Most people don't need to play music loud enough for an entire group. Tell your buddies to buy their own sound system. If it seems like a sacrifice right now, revisit the idea the next time you have battery trouble. It doesn't seem so bad when you're faced with not getting to ride because your battery is dead. If cutting back the accessories isn't an option, there is one more path you could take. You could install a high-output stator or an external alternator. But that's an extreme reaction and a topic for another time.
Proper battery maintenance is THE easiest way to ensure you're never let down. Yet, we see issues with this all the time.
"Maintenance Free" refers to fluid levels - you will still need to properly maintain any battery you use.
Make sure you are getting a quality battery and you are maintaining it. Most batteries today are AGM and say maintenance free right on the side, but that just refers to the fluid level in the battery. You still have to check the connections and put the battery on a maintainer when not in use.
Did you know that a battery self discharges at a rate of four to six percent every 30 days? Here's an example of a common scenario: There's 60 days of cold weather. Or just life happening. Thanksgiving, Christmas, then New Year's and you haven't gone out to ride in a while. Since it's cold and your rig hasn't moved, it's going to take twice as long the first time you try to start it up. In this real life scenario, your battery could be as low as 50% to 60%. The next time your start to curse your dead battery, think about how you've been treating it first.
]]>Drive
On an independent suspension, wheel bearings are located inside the spindle or steering knuckle. Each steering knuckle connects the wheel hub to the upper and lower A-Arms, with the CV shaft passing through the bearings inside the knuckle and into the wheel hub. On units with a solid rear axle; i.e, a 2001 Yamaha Warrior 350, the rear wheel bearings sit inside a single rear wheel hub. The solid axle connects to the wheel collar (which is bolted to the wheel), passes through the bearings located inside the wheel hub, through the sprocket collar (which holds the rear sprocket), and connects to the wheel collar on the opposite wheel.
The powersports industry uses many types of wheel bearings, but the most common is a round stainless steel ring with ball bearings sealed on the inside. Many (but not all) aftermarket wheel bearing kits include oil seals. Oil seals can also vary in appearance. The most common is a thick round rubber seal. Certain aftermarket kits may provide oil seals that appear different than OEM oil seals; i.e., a round metal base with a flanged rubber flap. While these seals may exhibit a different appearance, they often perform the same function at OEM or better quality.
The wheels on the vehicle are brought to movement by forces generated by the engine. The engine passes these forces to the transmission, which passes them to either a differential or a sprocket. In either case, the end result is that this force is transferred to the axle which results in axle rotation. This rotation is the first visible sign of the force which causes the wheels to turn.
To turn the wheels, the axle must pass through the stationary steering knuckle or rear wheel hub assembly. It is important to note that neither the steering knuckle nor the rear wheel hub assembly have any relevance on whether or not the wheels turn. In this instance, these parts are only relevant as a carrier for the wheel bearings.
Because the carrier is incapable of rotation, wheel bearings are pressed inside a hub, allowing the rotation from the axle to transfer to the wheel hub and thus the wheel. During axle rotation, the outer ring of the wheel bearing remains stationary, as it maintains contact with the inner hub of the carrier. The inner ring, which is in contact with the axle, is free to rotate with the axle. This movement is made possible by the bearings sandwiched between the inner and outer rings.
The short service life of wheel bearings is due in part to the enormous pressure placed on the bearing. Note that wheel bearings are used to transfer rotational force through a carrier; this position causes the entire weight of the vehicle to be distributed among the wheel bearings. The constant pressure caused by the weight of the vehicle combined with the rotational movement of the bearing and the intense impacts sustained by off-road vehicles all contribute to shortening the service life of a wheel bearing.
While dust and debris can significantly shorten the service life of a wheel bearing, the oil seals included with many wheel bearing kits have no impact on transfer of motion.
Wheel bearings are a very common wear item and should be checked often. Due to the location inside the steering knuckle, worn wheel bearings can cause significant damage to nearby parts such as the steering knuckle, wheel bearing spacers, wheel hubs, and in some cases even rotors.
It is not recommended to replace wheel bearings with previously used bearings. Fortunately, wheel bearings are easy to inspect. With the wheel lifted off the ground, the wheel bearings can be examined by grabbing the tire on both sides and attempting to pull the tire with one hand while simultaneously pushing with the other. Any free play observed during this motion suggests wheel bearings that are at the end of the service life.
Replacement wheel bearing kits are relatively inexpensive - because wheel bearing kits vary by make and model as well as bearing manufacturer’s, they are available in a wide price range. An acceptable price for an aftermarket wheel bearing replacement kit falls anywhere between $15 for a single wheel bearing with no oil seal capable of replacing wheel bearings on a single wheel to $45 for a dual wheel bearing kit with oil seals capable of replacing both front or rear wheel bearings.
]]>Brakes
The presence and location of brake calipers can vary depending on the make and model of ATV. If a caliper is present, it will always be found straddling a rotor, also known as a brake disc.
While many ATVs have four brake calipers, one for each wheel, it is not uncommon for an ATV to have only three calipers. Typically, a brake caliper straddles each rotor in the front, which is mounted to the wheel hub. In the rear, a rotor may be mounted to the axle. This configuration can be seen on a Yamaha Warrior.
It is also not uncommon for an ATV to have four individual brake calipers that are not at all interchangeable; the Yamaha Grizzly is an example of this practice. There are also a number of side by side UTVs which have two front brake calipers but only one caliper in the rear, which is located on the input of the differential. For example, this brake caliper configuration can be seen on the 2014 ODES Dominator.
The size of brake calipers varies as widely as the makes, models, and sizes of an ATV. Some of the them are colored and some of them are bare metal. The best way to differentiate a brake caliper from any other ATV part, is to understand it's function. Regardless of location, a brake caliper will always straddle a rotor. Brake calipers are used only in applications that require both brake pads and brake fluid. Therefore, a brake caliper will always have a shape conducive to the curvature of a rotor and brake pads, as well as possess a brake line (or at least an attachment for a brake line).
Brake calipers also feature at least one caliper piston, although this is another factor which varies by application. Most ATVs have just one caliper piston, but this is not a hard and fast rule. Generally, the larger the application, the larger the brake pads, which equates to the need for additional pistons. For example, a 2008 Yamaha Grizzly 700 has four brake calipers, with one piston each. This can be seen mounted in the photo above. The 2014 ODES Dominator has three brake calipers with one piston in each the front calipers and four pistons in the rear caliper. The rear caliper is shown unmounted in the photo below.
When the brakes are applied (either by hand or foot brake), brake fluid is pushed from the master cylinder to the caliper piston. The force of the brake fluid causes the piston to apply pressure to the brake pads, which then squeeze the rotor. The friction and heat created by the brake pads on the rotor creates a drag on the rotor. In instances where the rotor is mounted to the wheel hub assembly, the drag on the rotor causes the assembly to slow. This in turn slows the turning of the wheels, which slows the vehicle. In instances where the rotor is mounted to the rear axle or differential, the drag on the rotor causes the drive shaft or axle to slow. This slowing causes both wheels and thus, the vehicle, to slow.
While brake pads are common wear items, the brake caliper housing is incredibly low maintenance and in most circumstances, will last the life of the ATV. In the instance that a brake caliper component is damaged during removal or installation, aftermarket rebuild kits are available in the $10-$30 range depending on the application. These rebuild kits usually include bleeder valves, rubber components, and pad hanger pins. While aftermarket rebuild kits are readily available for most models, rebuilding a caliper is a task which might be better left to a professional. Removing the caliper piston takes some specific knowledge and experience. In the wrong hands, this process can cause severe injury or worse. As with all parts, depending on the make and model, it may be cheaper to buy a new caliper than to attempt to have it rebuilt.
Because of the importance of the brake calipers function, as well as the difficulty with testing prior to purchase, it is not recommended to buy a used brake caliper.
]]>Unfortunately, replacing a CV boot is one of those tasks that is not nearly as easy in practice as it is on paper. Generally, you’ll need to remove the axle (aka CV shaft), then remove the CV joint. Sometimes you’ll get lucky and this won’t be so bad. Most of the time you’ll fight with removing the axle from the differential. Like I said, it’s easy on paper. Not so much in practice. Bear in mind, we’re a shop, so we remove and replace CV boots all the time. So when we found a company that claimed to make a tool that would allow us to replace a CV boot without removing the axle or the joint, we were intrigued. The Quick-Shot CV Boot Installation Tool Kit from Norrec Industries comes with everything you need to install one of their Fast-Boot universal CV boots. The kit includes the Quick-Shot tool, a banding tool, knife, and instructions. The only other item you'll need to operate the Quick-Shot is an air compressor. Not gonna lie here, this is a scary looking tool. But we’ll try anything once, maybe even twice. When our Quick-Shot kit came in, we were excited to get to work.
The Fast-Boot CV Boot Kit includes the rubber boot, moly grease, clamps, and even a banding tool. We thought that was a pretty nice touch since the banding tool hasn’t been included in any of the other brands of boots we’ve tried.
Since this is a universal boot, it does have two markers on the larger end to accommodate varying joint sizes. Depending on the application, you may need to trim the boot down a size to fit properly. Hence, the utility knife included with the Quick-Shot. Since most vehicles have at least two different CV boots (some even have four different boots!), the Fast-Boot is great for a universal spare. It can be used on any axle and you just reduced your field kit from possibly four CV boot kits and a banding tool to one or two Fast-Boot kits. We generally only pack one, but if we were running with all stock boots on our rig, we’d probably pack two Fast-Boot kits just to be safe. Now we could have tried this tool out on any make or model of ATV, but since the Fast-Boot kit was the ONLY CV boot kit listed to fit a Bush Hog, it seemed like a perfect match. This particular ATV needed several CV boots replaced. So while we’re only going to walk through the process of changing one, we were fortunate enough to get a ton of practice. Not that you need much - Norrec Industries has designed the Quick-Shot and Fast-Boot kits to make swapping a CV boot a relatively straightforward process. The first step is always to cut off the old boots and clamps.
Since we are not taking these axles apart, I clean as much of the old grease out as possible.
While the old boots were worn out, they really weren’t terrible - there was no dirt or water present. If there had been, I would recommend cleaning them with a solvent or parts cleaner of some kind before putting in the new grease. Once the old grease is cleaned out, you’ll want to take a look at the CV joint and the Fast-Boot. Since the Fast-Boot is a universal kit, it is designed to be cut to size. After comparing our CV joint and the Fast-Boot, I determined that the large ring on the Fast-Boot was too big and would need to be cut to size.
Modifying the boot to fit was surprisingly hard to do. The Quick-Shot came with a brand new utility knife but it would hardly cut the Fast-Boot. Now that we’ve been installing Fast-Boots for a few months, it has gotten easier. But before you assume this is a point against Fast-Boot, we encourage you to keep reading…
Once we got the Fast-Boot cut to size, we were pretty excited to try out the Quick-Shot. Following the instructions, we slid the Fast-Boot on to the end of the Quick-Shot until just the tips stuck out.
Then we hooked up the air and pushed the button on the Quick-Shot to begin stretching the Fast-Boot. We were amazed at just how much these boots stretch. It’s worth noting that despite having worked with the Quick-Shot and Fast-Boot combo for several months, this process is still guaranteed to draw an audience in the shop.
Seeing the Fast-Boot stretch like this was amazing and it made us think - if this boot can stretch like that on this tool, this boot is going to be so much more durable on the trail when it’s being poked with brush and forced to conform to the many angles of a CV joint. (We later tested this theory by piercing the boot with a box knife.)
After the boot was stretched, we slid it over the CV joint, hit the release button on the Quick-Shot, and the tool and Fast-Boot shrunk back to normal. When you’re done, the Fast-Boot slides off the Quick-Shot. The tines on the Quick-Shot open back up so that the tool can slide right off the shaft.
Now that was simple. All that was left now was to fill the joint with grease and install the clamps.
The Fast-Boot kit comes with both the grease and the clamps, so you’re covered there. The Quick-Shot comes with a premium banding tool, so if you get both tools, you’re pretty well covered the next time you need to replace a CV boot.
Now you may be wondering, what about the inner boot? What if the axle is still on the unit or if that end is too big for the Quick-Shot to slide over? Well you just turn the Fast-Boot inside out...
With the Fast-Boot inside out, you’ll follow the same process as above. Once the boot is on the shaft, you turn it inside out again (right side in?) so that the Fast-Boot sits correctly on the CV joint. Bam - just like that you have the inner boot installed on the shaft.
We have been highly impressed with both the Quick-Shot tool and the Fast-Boot CV Boot Kit. It has become our go-to shop tool. In fact, we’ve stopped installing other CV Boot kits in favor of the Fast-Boot kit. Admittedly, the Fast-Boot kit is a little higher than a normal aftermarket CV boot kit. As of the date of this post, the All-Balls custom fitted CV boot kits that we carry retail at $13.25 whereas the Fast-Boot universal kit retails at $17.99. While the price is a little higher, bare in mind that with the Fast-Boot kit, you’ll only ever need one type. With a custom fitted kit, you may need up to four different CV boots depending the make and model of your rig.
The 2006 Yamaha Grizzly 600 has three different CV boot part numbers (the front inner and rear outer are the same, but the front outer, and rear inner are all different. On a 2006 Kawasaki Brute Force 750, all four CV boots are different. Even the 2015 Polaris Ranger 900 XP has three different CV boot part numbers. The Fast-Boot universal kit from Norrec Industries effectively replaces each of these part numbers with just one kit.
It’s important to note that the Quick-Shot is designed to use the Fast-Boot CV boot kits. While you can use the Fast-Boot without the Quick-Shot,you CANNOT use the Quick-Shot with any other brand of CV boot. The reason for this (and the reason we began recommending the Fast-Boot kits over traditional “fitted” CV boots) is that the rubber used by Norrec is designed specifically to stretch out OVER the CV joint. Because the rubber is formulated to stretch, we’ve found that the Fast-Boot is significantly more durable than the fitted boots that we previously recommended. Norrec Industries warns that using the Quick-Shot with other boots may cause the boot to tear or cause damage to the arms on the Quick-Shot. When you hold the Fast-Boot in one hand and a typical aftermarket CV boot the other, the difference in pliability is obvious. While it’s common to tear a boot when riding through brush, it took a decent amount of pressure to pierce the Fast-Boot with a box knife.
When we recommend the Fast-Boot kit to a customer, they inevitably ask about for a price on the Quick-Shot. The Quick-Shot retails at $277.99 - if you change one CV boot a year, we can’t really recommend it. But for a shop environment where you replace multiple CV boots on a routine basis, we can’t recommend it enough. The Quick-Shot has saved us more time than we can count. After using this tool for a few months, we’re now able to change both boots on an axle in about 15 minutes. That includes cutting off the old boots, removing the grease, and installing the new boots and new grease. When we used the All-Balls CV boots, it took about 45 minutes to replace both boots on an axle. So all told, the Quick-Shot has saved us about 30 minutes per axle. If you replace several CV boots a month, I highly recommend investing in the Quick-Shot CV Boot Tool. Even if you do not use the Quick-Shot, the Fast-Boot CV Boot Kits are a great replacement. I normally don’t recommend universal items because the Fast-Boot kit was designed to work with the Quick-Shot, it is significantly tougher than other aftermarket CV boots. When you combine the extreme durability with the miniscule price difference and the fact that one Fast-Boot kit could potentially replace four aftermarket kits, the choice becomes a no brainer. With or without the Quick-Shot, the Fast-Boot kit is an amazing value and has quickly become the only CV boot kit we carry in our field kit.
]]>Next we removed the caliper mount bolts. These are located behind the rotor. If you haven't checked out our Anatomy of an ATV on Brake Calipers yet, I strongly recommend it. Then we removed the caliper from the rotor. I used a pry bar to GENTLY nudge the caliper loose. Removing the caliper from the rotor can take a little work. In our case, the caliper was still clamped and the rotor had not been rolled. We used a little elbow grease to loosen things up. With the caliper removed, you can see that the pads were getting down there. They weren't gone completely, but they were on their last leg. Next I cheated and used a c-clamp to compress the pistons back in to the caliper. After that we needed to remove the caliper slide pins. These are located along the bottom edge of the caliper. The caliper pins allow the brake pads to slide freely as the caliper piston applies pressure to the inner pad. First thing out was a little plug that covers the bolt head. If your caliper doesn't have this, don't worry. It's pretty uncommon and like all things, it will vary by make and model. Then we removed the slide bolt. With this style of caliper, we didn't need to remove the pin. We just slid it out about half way. Less parts on the floor is always a good thing. With the slide bolt out of the way, we removed the outer brake pad... With semi-mettalic pads, you'll occasionally find magnetic residue. Make sure to clean as much of that out of the way as possible. We won't judge you if you spend a few minutes playing with it before moving on. After taking a break to play with the magnetic residue, we got back to work. We removed the inner brake pad. Of course, we can't do anything around here without comparing the old parts to the new ones. The old brake pad is on the left, the new one is on the right. Yea, I'd say they were about do for a changing. We slid the new inner brake pad into place... Followed by the new inner brake pad. With the inner pad, we first hooked one end of the pad onto the caliper and then lowered the whole pad on its side into the caliper. Again, this will be different with every make and model. With the new pads in place, we replaced the slide pin and the retaining cap screw. Now that the caliper is fully assembled, we placed it back on the rotor. Make sure you have the mount bolts tight. And just like that, you're all done! It would feel incomplete not to remind you to replace the wheel. Congratulations, you've just replaced your brake pads. In this particular instance, we went on and did this three more times. Each scenario is different. Some ATVs might have a single brake caliper in the rear while some may have two. Also, it's worth noting that in some instances the brake pads might be different all the way around. Our Grizzly has four separate sets of brake pads and while they're all similar, no two are alike.
]]>We ditched our shop rate in 2015 and here’s why.
When we expanded to the point that we were struggling to keep up with the work in the shop, we were fortunate enough to have a good friend who also happens to be one of the most skilled mechanics we know willing to help us out. During one of our particularly busy days, it was brought up that in a traditional shop, the customer wouldn’t ever talk to the mechanic. Traditionally (at least at every other shop we’ve ever been to), the customer would speak with a Service Writer, but not usually a mechanic. And sometimes that’s even AFTER going through a salesman only to be directed to the Service Department.
It’s a lot of steps, and while we’re sure someone with more pedigree than us had a very good reason for implementing this system, it just doesn’t work for us. Around here, shops are either loved or hated – there’s not really a middle ground. And we’ve done alright in our first year. We work based on feedback we get from our customers, and what our customers are saying is that they like the personal attention of talking to our mechanics versus the buffers that so many shops tend to put in place.
When we opened our store, it was because we wanted to give better service than we were getting. There are certain ways that we knew we could achieve this; we don’t charge restocking fees and we don’t wait a week to place orders. But when we started having enough work to support an employee or two, we started to realize that we could do even more to improve the experience.
I may have sounded a little harsh about the experience in a traditional shop earlier; there’s a good reason most mechanics don’t talk directly to the customers. In a lot of shops, the mechanics aren’t paid hourly or on a salary. Instead they are paid by flag time, or the amount of time it SHOULD take to complete a job. For example, let’s say a customer brings in a unit that needs an oil change and a CV shaft replaced. If that’s the only work available in a shop for the day, that’s all the mechanic gets paid to do. From the mechanic’s perspective, he shouldn’t have to talk to customers; his job is to get as much done in as little time as possible. It’s how he puts food on the table. I don’t care how good a guy he is, if he’s not getting paid to talk with customers he’s not going to be motivated to provide customer service.
At the beginning of the year, we had a set shop rate. But it quickly started to look like it wasn’t making any sense. Since it had always been Scott and myself working in the shop, our customers had grown fond of speaking with us about the work directly. We wanted to continue briefing them on the services and work we had done when they came to pick their unit up and we knew that paying our employees flag time would hinder that. We’ve managed to avoid this problem by paying all of our employees hourly. Now, even though we have specialists (some people spend more time in the shop than the office and vice versa), everyone does everything. That means that our entire team is devoted to providing the very best customer service possible. Whether they turn wrenches or spend all day on the computer, everyone is responsible for making every customer interaction as friendly and as personal as possible.
On the surface, having a shop rate isn’t really a problem. But once you start paying your employees hourly, whether or not they’ve had work to complete, it can cause issues with cash flow. There’s a really easy solution to this: raise your shop rate.
I’d be lying if I said we hadn’t considered it. The shop rate we started with was low. Very low. There was definitely room for our rate to go up. It’s not uncommon around here for shop rates to be $85-$100/hour. But the more we considered it, the more unfair we felt it would be. We understand shops that raise their rate; there’s a lot of overhead in a shop that has to be covered and that money has to come from somewhere.
When we think about paying a single shop rate for any number of services, it seems unfair. Why should you pay the same rate for an oil change that you would pay for electrical troubleshooting? They certainly don’t take the same amount of skill. And sometimes diagnosing an electrical problem can actually be done quicker than an oil change. And with that realization, we ditched our shop rate.
The rate we charge for a service is now based on nothing more and nothing less than what that particular service requires. We’ve factored in the time it takes to complete a job, the skill level required, and the amount of supplies consumed. The rate for an oil change has nothing to do with the rate for a hard start diagnosis or electrical troubleshooting. We want you to know EXACTLY what you are paying for and our mechanics are more than happy to talk with you about it.
We’re not so naive as to think that we can have a price for every single variation of every single job – every unit and service is unique, and we fully anticipate that there will be times when we need to do a custom quote. But for most services and repairs, we can accurately determine a fair and reasonable price without ever needing to use a traditional shop rate.
We base our business plans on what works for our customers. If you’d like to see more services, a particular service, or pictures of our dogs, let us know.
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We’re still not sure why we have the remote out in this photo. When we installed our KFI winch, we mounted a switch inside the cab. I think we started using the remote outside of the cab and just kept on with it when we climbed back in.
We were incredibly impressed with the performance of the KFI winch. It pulled our almost 1300-lb Sandrail through some really thick mud like it was nothing.
You may recall that this was not a particularly well thought out plan. Eventually we reached a point where there was no moving forward. The irony that the Sandrail is the ONLY Odes model that does not come without a rear winch was not lost on us. I predict another custom KFI winch install in our future.
Fortunately, we had friends around who were more than willing to help us out. (That’s our story and we’re sticking to it.)
Unfortunately, there really wasn’t a good way to turn around – so we made our way back down the ditch in reverse. Again, thanks to our friends who were willing to pull us. And think, it only cost us a few jokes at our expense.
Of course, just because we’ve gotten ourselves stuck and unstuck doesn’t mean we can call it a day. Getting back onto dry land only made us more determined to get someone else stuck in the mud. Naturally, we volunteered the one guy there without a winch. (Although after this ordeal, we’re seeing KFI winch in his future too!)
Once we were sure he wasn’t going anywhere, we were happy to lend a helping hand.
When the day was done, we contacted KFI to give them a preview of what we had been up to. They responded right away with some really great advice.
Make sure you use your winches (ours and others) even when you do not need them to help keep the motor dry from condensation, especially when riding in wet conditions. The best maintenance is to put your winch into freespool and run the winch in and out until the motor housing gets warm (NOT hot) to the touch… This will help burn any condensation accumulated from riding as well as various weather conditions.
Since we’ve started with KFI, we’ve begun selling their plows in the store. We’re asked on a daily basis why we recommend KFI over any other brand and the answer is simple: their focus on customer service. Not only do they make great products, but they make them incredibly user friendly. Their directions are written so that someone who is brand new to doing their own maintenance can install and maintain their products. And honestly, going out and pushing a product to the limit is a lot easier when you know that it’s from a company who will stand behind you.
Disclaimer: All of the riding and footage used in this post was taken on private property with the owner’s permission. No laws were broken and no crops were harmed.
]]>Last week we attended the AIMExpo in Orlando, Florida. If you’ve never heard of this show, the American International Motorcycle Expo is where many of the top power sports vehicle and accessory manufacturers gather to show off the newest products. There are new product lines, vehicle demos, and lots and lots of swag. (Seriously, I think we took home about 20 coozeys.)
After walking around for two days and visiting over 500 booths, we’ve narrowed down our most exciting finds.
Of course, we were probably most excited to finally meet the guys from KFI Products. It was great to put a name to a face. They gave us some great winch tips and we talked blade mounts for awhile. One of the things that we love about KFI is that if they really go out of their way to make sure there is a solution for just about every application out there.
We also got to check out the Tiger Tail while we were there – more on that coming soon!
And we had to include this photo of their 60″ tapered blade on a 900 Ranger Crew. The enclosure is by Wide Open Company.
At around $650 per set, these babies aren’t exactly cheap. But it’s hard to put a value on adding traction AND floatation. J-wheelz add traction at a significant savings to traditional methods and the lightweight material can add up to 310lbs of floatation to a stock vehicle. This additional floatation aids in riding through deep water and mud. The booth demo showed us just how easy it was to install and remove J-wheelz. We were impressed by the simple design that keeps the J-wheelz out of the way and extends their lifespan. Given our tendency to get muddy, we like the idea of trying J-wheelz out this spring.
Strider bikes are a light weight, all-terrain bike specifically designed to improve balance. Most children start on Strider bikes at the age of two, but the design is so well thought out that Strider manufactures two larger bikes which are ideal for all ages and abilities. We didn’t get to meet inventory Ryan McFarland, but we did get to meet with his parents. From the few minutes we got to spend with them, we could see that these are generous people who truly want to make a difference. Strider is committed to donate one percent of the gross profits toward non-profit organizations focused on the health and wellbeing of children.
If you’re looking for a way to get your little one started riding, we’d recommend Strider. And while you’re looking into it, check out the Strider World Championships. It might just be the cutest thing we’ve ever seen.
Since we’re looking to expand our side by side inventory in the next year, we’ve been reading up on several OE vehicle manufacturers. While there were lots of great new side by sides at the show, one that really stuck with us was the 2015 lineup from Hisun. We got to see the Sector 1000, Strike 1000, and Strike 250 up close and personal and even met with the man who designed the Sector 1000 (shown below). With all new body styles and a slew of innovative features set to debut next month, we’re anxiously awaiting the first time we can get out and play with Hisun.
We first saw the Quadski on an episode of Top Gear a few years ago and we’ve always thought it was a fascinating concept. Part ATV, part jetski, the Quadski is an impressive piece of machinery. The massive 1300cc engine from BMW is capable of moving the Quadski along at 45mph on both water and land. When you drive out into the water, the wheels retract with a push of a button and you’re good to go.
In our neck of the woods, the Quadski is probably a bit excessive for the everyday rider but it’s still fun to think about. Check out the video below for an inside look at the Top Gear episode featuring the Quadski.
While the first two days of the Expo is open to dealers only, the final three days are available to the public. If you get a chance to attend next year’s show, we highly recommend it. Getting to see the new product lines up close and personal was awesome and the ability to meet with some of the designers and engineers was icing on the cake. Oh, and sunny Florida wasn’t so bad either. 😉
The 2015 dates for AIMExpo have already been announced.
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There’s two different ways to answer this question. So far, we haven’t found a finite maximum on what the bed can carry. Most of our customers use their Dominators for farm work; i.e., lots of sprayers, fire wood, some gravel, and dirt. When it comes to the electric dump function, the motor is rated at 330-lbs. So while the bed can carry just about anything you can fit in it, you’ll want to keep an eye on any load where you might want to use the electric dump function.
Yes, but not easily. The bed attaches to an electric lift. This lift is held in place by a rod and pin. To lift the bed manually, you’ll need to remove this hardware. If you think that you’ll use a manual lift more often than not, we suggest removing the electric dump motor right off the bat. Manual and electric dump is not something you’ll want to switch back and forth between on a regular basis. If you find yourself wanting the use of the manual dump exclusively, it may be worth it to install a manual dump conversion kit. If you like the idea of using the electric dump function exclusively but are concerned about having the ability to dump a load without power, you can always remove the pin and lift the bed manually.
The short answer here is: you can’t. We know that’s not what anyone wants to hear, but the cold hard truth is that it’s not profitable to write a service manual for a Chinese ATV. That being said, it should come as no surprise that no one has ever done it. That’s not to say that there aren’t some troubleshooting tips and wiring diagrams out there.
In the Chinese models that DO have a GY6 engine, it’s important to remember that GY6 refers to the style of the engine and not the name of the engine. Confused? Let’s try an analogy. Let’s say that you’re a smartphone user, and let’s say that last weekend you took your phone riding with you and damaged the screen. Monday morning rolls around and decide to go into the nearest cell phone store and buy a replacement screen. You can’t just walk in and say, “I need a replacement screen for my smartphone.” Well, you could, but we all know there’s more to it than that. What brand of phone do you have? What is the model? How about the screen size? Similarly, you can’t just say, I need a top end kit for a GY6 engine. There are actually several variations of GY6 engines. Last month, we encountered a GY6 Bravo and a GY6 Yerf-Dog within just weeks of each other. In each instance, not only does the valve cover bolt on in a different manner, but the heads themselves aren't even the same size. All this is to say, not all Chinese ATVs have the same engine. Even in the GY6 style engines, it's important to know that every engine is not the same.
At the risk of sounding bias, if you're looking for a Chinese ATV (particularly for a youth ATV), you're better off buying new from a reputable dealer. You'll spend a little bit more money initially, but if your dealer offers a warranty and carries parts on hand, you'll save yourself some money and headache in the long run.
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We like the EPI belt and recommend it to all of our customers for a number of reasons. It's an affordable performance drive belt that comes with a one-year warranty. EPI also has a reputation developing clutch systems. So with belt in hand, we were ready to tear this thing apart.
Changing the belt on the Sandrail took us a little longer the first time, because we had to figure out the logistics of getting to the clutch. Now when we do it for our customers, the process is pretty quick. While we could see the clutch cover, the trailing arms and shocks made removing it nearly impossible in it's current state. We had a little bit of a round peg, square hole situation going on...
Initially, we tried removing the shock from the trailing arm. But even that wasn't enough. In the end, we opted to lift the Sandrail, then remove both the shock and the front bolt on the trailing arm. The lift allowed the trailing arm to fall away and gave us plenty of room to access the clutch cover.
With the clutch cover removed, we got started removing the stock belt. To remove the belt, you'll want to seperate the primary drive. Do this by inserting a threaded bolt into the primary drive clutch. The bolt size depends on the clutch model. You may need to try a few different sizes before finding the right one. Whatever size you use, the bolt should be about two and a half inches long and solid threads.
Once the primary drive has been opened up, the belt pulls right off.
At this point, it's always fun to compare the differences between the damaged part and the new part. In the photo below, the new EPI Severe Duty Belt is on the left and our stock belt is on the right. You can see that the edges of our stock belt are worn and bevelled inward. On the new belt, everything is crisp and sharp. Additionally, our stock belt looks almost polished. This is from rubbing along the primary drive, likely due to excessive RPMs while we were stuck against a log. Of course, crossing through deep water without a snorkel didn't help much either.
Installing the new belt back on the clutch was super easy. Since the primary drive is separated, everything is loose and it slides right on. It's important to note the direction the the belt is applied. Fortunately, there are giant arrows printed on the side of the EPI belt (a feature our stock belt was lacking). And it says right on the box to make sure the belt is installed with the arrows pointing toward the front of the vehicle. So, it's pretty much a no brainer.
Once the belt was installed, we tightened up the primary drive. The belt shifts into place on it's own. Really, that's about all there is to it.
Once the belt was installed, all we had to do was replace the clutch cover, the trailing arm, and the shock. Easy peasy. Now the hard part is finding time to get out and ride...
]]>You may or not be aware that most newer cylinders have a Nickel-Silicon Carbide coating (NSC). What this means is that when the cylinder is wore down or gouged, it is possible to re-plate it and bring it back to stock. Even deep gouges can often be welded and then re-plated.
For example, check out the cylinder below. While it's not the KFX cylinder (it's actually from a KTM dirt bike), it's a great example of the kind of repairs that can be made. The photo on the left shows a gouge in the cylinder. The photo on the right shows the cylinder after being re-plated. While the gouge was significant, it was still shallow enough that the cylinder didn't even need to be welded. The re-plating was enough to repair the damage with minimal cost.
Because we’ve worked with Millennium Technologies in the past (they plated the KTM cylinder above for us), and because we’ve had such good luck with their services, we sent the KFX cylinder for them to be re-plated.
While the photo above isn't a TRUE before and after, you can still see the difference very clearly. Both cylinders in the photo above are from a 2005 KFX 400. The cylinder on the left is an overbore and the cylinder on the right is the stock cylinder that we sent to Millennium Technology to be re-plated.
You can see that when the cylinder came back, it looked brand new. Another bonus for working with Millennium Technologies is their lifetime guarantee on the plating. When other brands have had issues with the plating peeling, knowing that Millennium Technology stands behind their workmanship gives us peace of mind.
For the piston, rings, and gasket, we opted to purchase a Namura Top End Rebuild Kit. More often than not, purchasing a kit provides significant savings over purchasing the pieces individually.
Another benefit to purchasing a kit is that you can be sure you have everything you need. The kit we purchased came with a new piston, rings, gaskets, circlip, and piston pin.
The installation of the cylinder and top end kit was very easy. (Especially since we’ve tore this engine down more than once.) Because we have done this so many times, we’ll be fairly brief here while still providing links to more detailed descriptions.
Since the cylinder was already removed so that it could be re-plated, we started off with everything tore down. The very first thing we did was dig out our handy dandy manual from Clymer and found this easy to read illustration...
Following the guide in our manual, we slid each of the new rings onto the piston. There are three rings; a compression ring, and two oil rings. When you install the rings onto the piston, you want to make sure that they are in the right order, and that the gaps in the rings are staggered. The gaps are important for ensuring the proper amount of oil gets into the cylinder with each stroke and that proper compression is maintained.
After the piston rings were installed, we installed the circlip only on one side.
Now we put some engine assembly lube on the piston pin.
Also inside the rod.
Then we placed the piston onto the rod. While holding the piston in place, we slid the pin through the rod.
With the piston in place on the rod, you want to make sure you install the second circlip to hold the piston pin in place.
After the piston is installed, you'll want to make sure you install the bottom cylinder gasket. Otherwise, you may have to take everything back apart and then put it back together again. (Ask us all about that next time you see us!)
Then it's time for some engine assembly lube in the cylinder bore.The real fun begins when it’s time to place the cylinder down over the piston and the rings. Before you start, make sure you pull the timing chain through the cylinder, and mind the timing chain guides. We recommend tying the chain off with some wire, just so it doesn’t fall back down while you’re working.
This is one of those tasks that feels like it takes more than two hands. Unfortunately, if you try to use more than two hands, you’ll just end up stepping on each other and cursing. Rest assured, it can be done with two hands. We won’t guarantee it can be done without cursing.
The easiest way we have found is to start the cylinder over the piston and push in one ring at a time until the cylinder bore is covering that ring. You will have to work the ring around but each one will compress and go in - eventually. Patience is key here.
Once the cylinder was seated, we placed the head gasket on top of the cylinder.
About this time, we realized we had yet another obstacle in the way of finishing this project. Can you spot it?
Yup, that would be a missing link in the timing chain. Sigh. So ultimately we ended up taking everything back apart, replacing the timing chain, and repeating the entire process. Don't worry, we won't recap that here.
But for the sake of finishing what we started, the next step would be to replace the head with the head bolts. You'll need to refer to your manual for the torque specs and method. At this point, the top end kit should be completely installed.
The final steps are to replace the cam shafts and adjust the timing. Because of the way the cam shafts are marked, it is an incredibly easy process to properly time this unit. For specific details on the timing, check out our post Timing is Everything.
This feels like the perfect opportunity to throw in those words we can’t say enough of: every ATV is different. For specific timing instructions on your ATV, refer to the service manual.
So what was the worst cylinder you have taken apart? Have you ever got everything back together and then found a part? Do you have a better way of doing this?
Let us know in the comments!
]]>Disclaimer: This is a custom installation. Even though we worked with KFI to develop a solid plan for this installation, there were still moments when we held our breath. While this was easy enough that anyone could repeat our process, nervous types might be better off to take this installation to a dealer or a qualified shop. As always, the following is the process that worked best for us.
The first part of this installation was removing the hood from the Sandrail. Before we got started drilling, we wanted to test fit the mount. Remember, currently there is not a mount available for the Odes Sandrail. Based on the photos and measurements we sent KFI, they recommended the mount for the Kubota RTV900 Wide Mount (100470). Since KFI didn’t have the Sandrail and we didn’t have the mount, this was the first time the two were getting together. It was a perfect fit! To install the mount, we needed to first drill holes through the plate on the Sandrail. This is where the custom part is killer; we almost messed up and drilled the holes in the wrong spot. We did not think about the placement of the bolts in relation to the where the winch was going to mount. If we would have put them ½ inch to the left, I would not have been able to tighten the bolts for the mount because they would have been under the winch. Fortunately, we lucked out and they are going to work. That was a close one but it just goes to show that with these custom jobs, you really have to think of every angle before you start drilling. Like the saying goes, “measure twice cut once.” We set the mount back in and marked the two spots that lined up with the holes we just drilled in the Sandrail. Using a center punch before drilling holes into the mount made the process go smoother. The punch gives the bit a place to sit and keeps it from walking when you're trying to get started. Because there's no walking, the chances of error in hole placement are reduced. After drilling holes into the mount, we placed the mount back onto the Sandrail and made sure everything lined up. Once we were sure everything was good, we used a larger bit to countersink the two holes in the KFI mount. Whenever you attempt a custom installation like this for the first time, there's always a lot of back and forth. When we finished the first two holes on the KFI mount, we moved back to the Sandrail to see where we wanted the second set of holes. The line you see in the photo above is where the edge of the winch would sit. We needed to make sure that once the winch was mounted to the bracket, we could still access to bolts that would secure the mount to the plate on the Sandrail. With the new marks on the plate, we repeated the same process as above. Center punch, drill, test fit. We used the new holes in the KFI winch mount to mark the plate on the Sandrail. Once the holes were marked, we center punched and drilled the plate. When we finished, we had a total of four holes in the winch mount (all of which were countersunk), and four holes drilled into the plate on the Sandrail. We lined everything up for about the 1000th time, dropped a few bolts in, and confirmed that everything fit as it should. The next step was to countersink the holes that the winch would sit on in the mount. A lot of times, where the winch sits on the mount is more of a personal preference. In this instance, we opted to move the winch back as far as possible. But within days of completing our installation, we sold the same winch in the standard width to another Sandrail owner. For that installation, we opted to bring the winch closer to the front. There's not really a right or wrong position here. After countersinking all of the holes for the winch to mount to the bracket, we were ready to join the two. First we had to slide in the bolts that would sit below the winch (the ones that mount the bracket to the Sandrail). Then we were able to bolt the winch to the mount. Finally, we were able to get an idea of what we were working toward. We set the entire winch and mount assembly onto the Sandrail plate and got to work tightening everything down. Once everything was tightened down and secured, we needed to choose a location and mount the contactor. The contractor is sort of the "brain" of the winch and it's where all of the wiring meets. Because the Sandrail is a little crowded up front, we found it easier to remove the battery completely. With the battery removed, it was a lot easier to get in and find a spot for the contactor. On the Sandrail, there are lots of obvious places to mount accessories. We probably would have had an easier time if we had chosen a different location, but we have several upgrades planned and we want to save space for future accessories. So instead of behind the dash or the big empty spot on the plate right next to the voltage regulator, we opted to mount the contactor directly below the voltage regulator and the CDI box, utilizing the small surrounding areas for our bolts. A word of caution: if you don't plan to ever add any additional accessories, you may be better off to mount to a surface that's a little easier to access.
**Yes, that really was the easiest way to mount the contactor in the location we chose.**
From here it was time to do the wiring. The big cables are very easy; everything is color coded. The red cable goes to the positive battery terminal (which is also red) to the red terminal on the contactor. The same is true of the black cable. It really is foolproof. The blue and yellow cables connect the contactor and the winch. When you're routing these cables, you'll want to make sure that they are tied up. To prevent any rubbing and to keep the cables from being burned by moving parts, we used zip ties to secure everything to the frame. (Note: KFI winches include EVERYTHING you need for installation, including a generous amount of zip ties.) One thing is for sure, KFI is not stingy with their wiring. By the time that we finished with all of the connections and zip ties, we had an abundance of excess cable. Enough so, that we could have installed the winch on the rear and still had plenty of room. But that's another can of worms entirely... Now in order to be able to use the winch, we needed to install the switch. KFI provides both a handle bar mount and a bracket for the switch. For our purposes, we only needed the bracket. We wanted to be able to access the switch from both the driver's seat and the passenger's seat. We also knew that we didn't want to take up space on the dash (again, future upgrades plus it's hard to reach the dash when you're wearing a four-point harness). In the end, we thought the console behind the shifter was the most convenient location. Installing the switch in the console was pretty easy. We first removed the plastic, then installed the bracket. For the switch, we drilled a slightly larger hole to feed the wiring though. When the cable was all the way through, we mounted the switch to the bracket. Then reinstalled the console, making sure to zip tie the cable to the frame as we ran them up to the contactor. Because we wanted the winch to run only when the key was turned, we needed to tap into some wiring. After testing a few options, we found that the 12V power outlet in the dash only comes on with the key. We used the wire taps provided by KFI to join the positive wire coming from the 12V and the positive wire coming from the winch switch. The wire taps are incredibly easy to use and we were happy that they were provided with the winch. You just join the two cables, push down on the metal tap (we used pliers for this), and then close the cover. And you're done! The last thing we needed to mount and hardwire in was the remote outlet. Again, we didn't want to use valuable real estate in the dash. Instead we opted to install the remote outlet outside of the Sandrail, on the hood. Out came the hole saw... When we were finished, we had a hole that would fit the outlet perfectly and allow it to sit flush with the outside of the hood. Just like with the switch, we fed the wire though the hood and made all of the connections with the contactor and the 12V outlet. Then we installed the outlet itself. To secure the outlet to the hood, we drilled two more holes and then installed the bolts provided by KFI. We really like the look of the remote outlet on the outside of the hood. And since the idea behind a remote is that you won't be using it in the cab anyway, we think it's more practical to keep it on the outside. This way, we can use the winch from outside the Sandrail and without the need to climb into the cab to plug in the remote. Once we finished the wiring, we just had a few finishing touches left. We mounted the roller fairlead to the front of the winch mount. We attached the cable stopper to the end of the cable. And attached the cable hook. And just like that, we were ready to get stuck! This was a really fun installation, and we're so happy that KFI helped make this work for us. Without their help and planning, I'm not sure what we would have done. But I can't imagine the installation going as smoothly. It really is apparent that they've put a ton of thought into their product line. Not only was there a generous amount of cable, but they made wiring foolproof. And we're impressed that they included so many extras. We never once had to stop to run out for wire taps or zip ties; all small items that are easily taken for granted until you have to stop what you're doing to run into town to grab some. Kudos to KFI for taking the extra step to include the extras that make installation that much easier. Recently, we had a chance to do this exact same install on another Sandrail for one of our customers. The first installation was pretty simple (honestly, we spent most of the time trying to decide where to mount everything). The second installation was a piece of cake. And not that looks have much to do with performance, but Beth insists I mention that the Stealth winch looks amazing. We're still itching to get out and play, and we can't wait to update you on performance details.
Unfortunately, wet cell batteries are going to run down and need to be refilled. That's just part of a wet cell's lifecycle and there's not much you can do about it. If you find that your acid levels and/or charge are running down quicker than usual, you may be charging it at too high an amperage. When you use too many amps to charge your battery, it causes excess heat. This heat causes the acid to calcify on the plates and evaporate quickly. This combination decreases both the charge capacity and the lifespan of your battery. Keeping your battery on a maintainer is the best way to extend it's lifecycle. A maintainer like a Battery Tender Jr will provide a trickle charge that keeps your battery ready to run no matter what.
We preach the Battery Tender pretty hard around here because it's an awesome way to maintain your battery and increase the lifespan. But if you plan on storing your battery for an extended period of time and you don't have access to a maintainer, there are a few guidelines you can use to keep your battery protected. If you're planning on storing your ATV in a shed our outhouse for the winter, we recommend pulling the battery and storing it in a climate controlled environment. The constant temperature will protect the plates or mats inside the cells. It will also help to prevent issues with condensation as the weather begins to warm up. If you don't have access to a maintainer, it's good practice to use a trickle charge at least once per month while the battery is in storage. This keeps the battery charged.
Whether you're using an Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) battery or a lead-acid battery, you definitely need to charge it before the first use. Adding the acid to the battery doesn't provide power. For either type of battery, you'll want to wait at least one hour before putting the battery on the charger. In most cases, you'll want to charge the battery for a full day or overnight. The Battery Tender Jr is great not only for maintaining your battery, but the trickle charge is an ideal method for charging your battery for the first time and we use it on all of the batteries we activate in the store. Unfortunately, there is no way to speed up the initial charge without contributing damage to the battery. It may run fine the first time, but quick charges are one of the easiest ways to ruin a battery.
There are a number of things you could be referring to here, but we'll try our best. First, we're assuming you didn't get any on your hands or clothes or in your eyes. If you did, you should back away from Google and go wash up and/or seek medical attention immediately. Once everything is good there, you'll want to make sure the acid in your battery is at the correct level. If it's a traditional lead-acid battery, make sure there is enough acid to meet the bottom line. If it's not, you'll want to add more acid. Charging or running a battery without the correct amount of acid is a great way to destroy it. Refer to our original post on battery maintenance for more details on this.
If the acid leaked and got on the outside of the battery, a shop floor, or any other surroundings, you'll want to neutralize it before trying to clean it up. Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is an excellent way to neutralize battery acid. Make mixture of water and baking soda. No need to be precise, just a lot of baking soda. Then pour it directly onto the spilled acid. (If you're pouring it onto the top of your battery, make sure everything is sealed up good first.) As the baking soda reacts with the acid, the mixture will bubble. You may need to use the baking soda and water more than once. You'll know everything is neutral and safe to clean up when you can pour the mixture and no longer see a reaction. This method is also great for cleaning corrosion off battery terminals.
]]>Granted, the name "Sandrail" conjures up images of dune buggies, which don't really need a winch. But in case you haven't heard, this thing is a 4x4 trail riding beast. (Check out the tech specs here and see how we hang with the RZRs). We really need a winch. Unfortunately, our experiences with winches have been you either buy a cheap one or you buy a REALLY expensive one. Either way, the Sandrail presents us with some challenges that don't really allow us to go grab any old winch off the shelf at the hardware store. What most people don't think about when shopping for a winch is that you also need to purchase a winch MOUNT. These mounts are specific to individual makes and models. For instance, a winch mount for a Polaris RZR is not going to be the same as the mount for a Yamaha Rhino. As a relatively new product produced by a young business (2014 is the first year that Odes produced the Sandrail), the Sandrail doesn't have a lot of custom aftermarket accessories available the way that some of the more established brands do. Which means there's not an aftermarket winch mount available. Now you may have noticed that there is a space available to mount a winch, but the plate is... not ideal.
So problem number one: despite needing a winch, we had no idea how we were going to mount one. Fortunately, there is a solution. Remember how I just said that our experiences with winches were limited to cheap brands and a REALLY expensive one? We're all for a paying a premium price for a premium product, but I think everyone can relate to feeling like you're paying for a name rather than quality. We hate that feeling. Opening our retail space has given us much more exposure to products that are both affordable and high quality. Today, we're incredibly happy to write about a winch that not only meets both qualifications but has OUTSTANDING customer service as well. We first came across KFI Products this winter when we were pricing snow plows. (Believe it or not, a lot of people don't realize that they need a winch as well as a blade and a few other accessories.) What intrigued us about the KFI winches, is that they offered far more value than the comparable brand. For instance, a 4000lb steel cable winch in one of the leading brands retails at $399. The comparable KFI 4500lb steel cable winch retails at just $315.*
So we contacted KFI and here's where we were really impressed. Initially, we had no clue what we needed. We wanted to try a synthetic line because I have never been around one. We've mentioned my military background on the site before, but here's a little more information: I am H8 qualified for the Army, meaning I am a certified recovery operator. Now that my career has advanced, I do less recovery and more supervision, but I still like to get my hands dirty once in awhile. Since I've never worked with a synthetic line winch in the Army, now seemed like a great opportunity to give it a shot. We called up KFI and told them what we had going on and what we were mounting to. This is where the surprise came for us. The sales department did not send us to the engineering department. Instead, they took what we were doing to the engineering department for us. The engineering department contacted us directly and over the next few days, we sent emails with photos and measurements as they worked with us to determine the best winch and mount for our Sandrail. At first, we were disheartened. The KFI engineer we spoke with didn't think we would be able to mount a winch due to the tubing on the front of the Sandrail. The main concerns here were whether or not we were going to need to drill through the tubing to install the winch and whether or not the line would rub against the tubes when the winch is in use. Fortunately, KFI worked through all of these problems with us and found a solution that would work for our unique application. After we discussed trying a synthetic line winch, KFI suggested we try their brand new SE45W. It is a 4500lb synthetic line wide base winch, which provides 50' of line - 12' more than their standard-width 4500lb stealth winch. Once we knew we had a winch and mount coming, we were like kids waiting for Christmas.
Once they arrived, we couldn't wait to get them opened. We opened the mount first...
The mount kit included two large steel plates and hardware. Since this mount is technically for a Kubota, we don't actually need both plates. Instead, we'll use the plate shown in the lower left of the photo below.
After we finished unpacking the mounts, we were ready to move onto the main course. The winch and its components were all organized and packaged nicely. But we were excited, so we ripped all that away and spread everything out on the floor like a couple of kids...
So far, KFI has provided us the best customer care and service that I have ever experienced. I am hoping that the install goes just as well.
*All of the prices used in our comparison were based on the Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price (MSRP). ]]>Commonly Located: Drive belts are present only on ATVs and UTVs with an automatic transmission. The drive belt is located behind the crankcase cover and in between the primary drive clutch and the driven clutch. Note that in older service manuals the clutches may be referred to as a pulley or a sheave.
Physical Description: The drive belt is a black rubber belt, oblong in shape, with a number of deep grooves along the inside and outside edges. The edges of the drive belt are slightly tapered inward.
There is often information printed along the ridges on the outside of the belt that indicate manufacturer, size, and direction. Depending on the belt manufacturer, there may be more or less information present.
Functions: The drive belt transfers power from the engine to the transmission. When the crankshaft turns, it turns the primary drive clutch, which squeezes the drive belt. (Note that the higher the RPM, the harder the primary drive clutch squeezes the belt.) This action pulls the belt and turns the driven clutch. The driven clutch turns the input shaft on the transmission, which applies power to the selected gear.
Maintenance Costs: Drive belts are considered a common wear item, and are therefore relatively inexpensive. When replacing a worn drive belt, it's good practice to upgrade to a heavy duty aftermarket belt. Scooter's Scooters stocks the EPI Severe Duty Belt with a one year warranty.
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